Day 3
10.93 miles, 988ft gain/3326ft loss. Fitbit steps: 30,460 Yep, pretty much just a re-run of the day before, but this time in reverse. After getting out of bed around 5:30am, and looking to the west, I couldn’t believe my eyes! All of the high clouds are gone, and the very tips of Mt. Hardy are glowing orange red from the coming sun, probably filtered through all the smoke from the fires, and there, in the middle distance, we can now make out clearly Black Peak, jutting majestically upwards, looking every bit like some mighty fortress of old. And, on the foreground ridgeline, between these two hulks is a river of flowing fog, drifting lazily down into the valley below us, where it dissipates before pooling, like some ghostly apparition disappearing before your eyes.
“…fearing the eyetastic sight will disappear before I can get the camera out of the bag…”
Truly an amazing sight and I cannot get my camera out quickly enough, fearing the eyetastic sight will disappear before I can get the camera out of the bag. Pretty awesome! And, now more to the north of Mt. Hardy, we can also make out snowcapped peaks beyond the immediate ridgeline, like Colonial Peak, Snowfield Peak, (probably the largest of the distant snowfields on the peaks…Who would have guessed with a name like that, right?), and Eldorado Peak to name a few. Golden horns leading edges are also bathed in golden light, and I cannot seem to take enough pictures. No description will be apt enough, and anyone that has seen a sight like this that’s difficult to explain, will understand when I say, “You had to be there…” A breathtaking sight, to be sure…Finally, sighing a contented sigh, I have to turn my back on the tableau and return to camp for breakfast and packing…This morning alone was worth the trip.
Packed up, we’re on the trail again, and this time, as we drop down to the PCT and the meadow right there on the junction, we see a yellow tent, but no occupants, must still be sleeping…As we hit the PCT that side hills the ridge, we’re treated to more wide open, spectacular views looking back north up the Swamp Creek valley to now visible Black Peak and a billowy blanket of fog that has settled at the head of the valley below the peak. Again, an awesome sight!
“…like the prow of some gigantic ice breaker, splitting the northern sky…”
After we hit Granite pass, we stop to sun screen up and get some nutrition in for the quick jaunt upwards that switchbacks ever up to the end of the ridge that we must go around before hitting Cutthroat pass. One last look back after making the climb up, and we get an unimpeded view of magnificent Tower Mountain, a massive monolith that is sheer cliff on one side, and more rounded on the back, like the prow of some gigantic ice breaker, splitting the northern sky.
Just before we reach Cutthroat Pass, we encounter our first humans, and as we continue ever downwards to the parking lot, we continue to meet more and more people. Once past the junction to Cutthroat Lake, the freshness of each individual rises until we notice we’re walking through clean scents we haven’t noticed in a couple days now. Wonder if they notice just how badly we need showers??? No matter, it won’t be long now, (ok, 5 hours really, as we go back through Winthrop to get gas and something to eat) before we’re home and can enjoy a good shower beer!
This hike truly belongs on your short list of hikes to do, I was continually amazed every time I rounded a corner and had all new and interesting vistas to take in. Just made me want to continue on down the trail to see what else there was to see! Most of the hiking was done on ridge or at least side hilling a ridge, so you constantly had something to see, a rare feat for most of the hikes we go on, as it seems to get above the trees, one must travel through them for several hours before being able to see the surrounding features. Hopefully, someday, we’ll return, to further explore this wonderful part of Washington!